Investment
Update
12/8/2002
"Why Stocks Still Rock,
Bonds Will Bomb, and Cash Is King"
On July 23, 2002, I warned
against investing right now in bonds and real estate. Today, a warning against investing in bonds appeared in the
latest (December, 2002) issue of Money magazine ("Why Stocks Still Rock,
Bonds Will Bomb, and Cash Is King"). In an article on page 84, "Game
Plan", by Nick Pachetti, the magazine gives "Reasons to Beware
Bonds". The reasons? the ones I gave on July 23rd: interest rates have much
more "upside potential" than "downside potential", and the
big surge in bond-buying, driving down interest rates as people jumped from the
stock market frying pan into the "bond-fire". The article explains
that many investors who have bought into bonds are taking the risk of being
"whip-sawed" by two bad investments in a row.
Home Ownership
A wealth of information is available at www.bankrate.com.
.
The Money magazine article also discusses home ownership, with some
interesting observations.
Refinancing
your home at a lower interest rate
Money magazine gives the following example (on page 124):
Suppose you had taken out a 30-year, $175,000 home loan in
December, 1996, at 6.63%, and you now want to refinance at 5.75%. Your current
monthly payments are about $967. Would that be a shrewd move?
By now, after six years, you would still owe $162,000 on the
principal, and you would have paid $68,000 in interest. You would have 24 years
to go until you paid off the mortgage.
Closing costs would typically be $3,000 to $5,000. Your
monthly payments would then be $776. At that rate, it would only take 17 to 28
months to make up the costs of refinancing. But....
If you refinance with a 30-year mortgage, it will now be 36
years from the time you started until you pay off your loan. That $68,000 in
interest you paid on your original loan will have been lost. Your total interest
costs on the old mortgage would have been $228,604. The total interest cost on
the new loan would be $178,339. However, you've already paid $68,000 in
interest, so you'd end up paying $17,753 in additional interest on top of the
$3,000 to $5,000 in closing costs.
Their suggestion: raise your payments by $95 a month,
bringing them to $871 a month, or about $94 a month less than your original
payments. This extra money goes straight into principal, and, in effect, reduces
the term of the loan to about 24 years.
An even better approach could be to take out a 20-year loan,
taking advantage of the face that the lower interest rate would lead to lower
payments. Beyond that, interest rates on 20-year loans are even lower than they
are on 30-year loans. In addition, six years of modest inflation should have
boosted your income by 15%-to-20%, improving your ability to pay.
Online Calculators
Bottom Line: Refinance if you're willing to keep your house payments at
or above their present level.
The article also describes "cash-out" refinancing,
which can pull more money out of a home loan than the amount of principal that
you've actually paid ($13,000 in our example above)... e. g., to pay college
tuition costs. However, the article warns that if your loan amount exceeds about
80% of your home's value, you'll be "forced to pay costly private mortgage
insurance".
Should I
negotiate a shorter-term mortgage, or should I add a fixed amount to my monthly
payments?
A shorter-term mortgage comes with lower interest rates, so
it's probably better to negotiate a shorter-term mortgage.
Would an
adjustable-rate mortgage (ARM) be the better choice?
The magazine points out that adjustable-rate mortgages (ARMs)
give lower rates during the first few years, when the interest rate is
guaranteed. After that, interest rates on ARMs can rise. However, interest
increases are generally capped at 2%. If the initial interest rate on your ARM
is 1% less than the interest rate on the equivalent fixed-rate mortgage, your
interest rate might rise, for example, 1% above the rate of the equivalent
fixed-income loan. If you're expecting to move within five years, an ARM would
make good sense, since you'll be refinancing somewhere else, anyway.
It would seem as though it would make the best fiscal sense
to use an ARM when interest rates are near their peaks, and are more apt to fall
over the low-interest grace period than they are to rise. You'll end up paying a
higher interest rate than you would if you refinanced, but that would be
the case if you'd financed with a fixed-rate mortgage, anyway, and you'd have a
lower interest rate with your ARM than you would if you had used a fixed-rate
mortgage.
To be continued.
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